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In a new puppy’s or kitten’s first week home, keep their world small and quiet: one calm room or a safe pen, the same food they were eating, a veterinary visit soon after they arrive and slow introductions to the people and pets already there. The holidays make that harder, so plan a little peace into the busiest season of the year.
If your new pet is a holiday gift, the ASPCA now says that can work well, as long as the person getting them has wanted a pet for a while and has the time to help them settle. If the pet is for a child under 12, the parents should be ready to do the caring. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior notes that winter may not be the easiest time to bring home a puppy, with a lot of cold trips outside for bathroom breaks.
Before they come home
For a kitten, set up one quiet room. International Cat Care suggests food and water (with the water away from the food), a bed, a litter box, toys and a scratching post, plus somewhere to hide, like a cardboard box on its side with a blanket inside.
For a puppy, set up a crate or a pen. Ohio State’s veterinary college says a crate should be big enough to sit, stand, turn around and lie down in comfortably, but not so big that your puppy can go to the bathroom in one corner and sleep in another. A pen or baby gate gives a slightly larger safe area.
Look at your home from their height. Start with cords. The ASPCA says electrical cords are the most dangerous kind, because a pet who chews through one can be electrocuted, and cords from blinds and long strings are a risk too. Then look for small things like coins and hair ties, house plants, and cabinets with medicines or cleaners.
Have the basics ready. For a kitten: a litter box, bowls, a scratching post, toys and a carrier. For a puppy: a collar with an ID tag, a leash, bowls, toys and a crate.
The first day and night
Kittens: International Cat Care says to keep the first 24 hours calm, without lots of new people. Put the carrier in the kitten’s room, open the door and let them come out on their own. Hiding is normal, so don’t coax them out. Sit in the room and read or watch TV, and let them come to you. Many kittens eat only a little at first, and a bit of bedding from their old home helps. A kitten who isn’t eating at all is different: call your veterinarian the same day rather than waiting.
Puppies: Ohio State suggests putting the crate in your bedroom at first, so your puppy settles more easily and you can hear if they need to go out. If your puppy wakes you, Humane World for Animals says to stay calm, take them out quietly and go straight back to bed, without turning it into playtime. If your puppy gets more frantic in the crate instead of settling down, Ohio State says to stop right away and ask for help. It usually means the crate training is going too fast. Never use the crate as punishment.
Food
Keep feeding what they were eating before. International Cat Care says a sudden change, on top of the stress of a new home, can upset a kitten’s stomach, and Cornell says switching a dog’s food too quickly can cause diarrhea. If you want to switch, mix the old food with the new, a little more each day, over one to two weeks.
Young puppies need several meals a day, and kittens do best with small meals often. International Cat Care adds: no cow’s milk for kittens, and not too many treats, since both can upset their stomachs. Your veterinarian can help you set a feeding schedule.
The first veterinary visit
Book it soon after they come home. Cornell’s Feline Health Center says any new cat should be checked by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
Puppies and kittens get a series of vaccines over their first months, timed by your veterinarian, so there are several visits close together. The American Animal Hospital Association’s puppy checklist includes vaccines, deworming and parasite prevention, and keeping microchip details current. Kittens get an exam and parasite checks too. If their history is unknown, Cornell suggests testing for feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus.
If you already have cats, keep a new cat or kitten apart from them until your veterinarian has seen the newcomer, especially if their health history is unknown. Bring treats, so the first visit feels good.
Socializing a puppy before all the shots
This one surprises people. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior says the first three months are a puppy’s main window for socialization, and that puppies should be socialized before they’re fully vaccinated. It says puppy classes can start as early as 7 to 8 weeks, at least a week after a first set of vaccines and a first deworming. AAHA’s guidelines for veterinarians agree that there’s no medical reason to wait for the full series, as long as there are no sick animals and basic hygiene is followed.
What to avoid until your veterinarian says your puppy is ready: dog parks, pet stores and other places where dogs of unknown vaccine status spend time. Cornell says parvovirus most often hits puppies between 6 weeks and 6 months old. A clean, supervised, puppy-only class and friendly visitors at home are good places to start.
House training and the litter box
Puppies: take them out first thing in the morning, last thing at night, after meals, after naps and after play. Ohio State suggests going to the same spot on a leash every time, so you can reward your puppy right away, after they’ve completely finished. Expect it to take a while. The Merck Veterinary Manual says the basics often come within a few weeks, and Humane World for Animals says full house training typically takes 4 to 6 months. Accidents happen. Never rub a puppy’s nose in a mess, which the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior says can cause fear.
Kittens: most learn to use a litter box from their mother. If yours hasn’t, International Cat Care suggests placing them in the box after they wake up and after meals. Choose a box with low sides, in a quiet spot, and scoop it daily. Never scold a kitten for going outside the box. Feline guidelines from AAHA and the American Association of Feline Practitioners say a kitten who goes outside the box should be checked by a veterinarian.
Meeting the pets already at home
Go slowly, at the pace of whichever pet is most nervous. For cats, the Feline Veterinary Medical Association (formerly the American Association of Feline Practitioners) suggests:
starting with the newcomer in a separate room;
swapping bedding so they learn each other’s smell;
letting them see each other through a glass door, a screen or an extra-tall pet gate;
then short, supervised visits.
Humane World says the whole process can take days, weeks or months. For a dog and a cat, International Cat Care suggests dividing the house first, swapping scents before any face-to-face meeting and keeping the dog on a leash and harness for the first introductions. It also says never to put the cat in a crate for them.
Keep time for the pet who was there first, too. They’re adjusting as well.
Children and a new pet
Supervise young children with a new kitten or puppy, and teach them that the new pet isn’t a toy. International Cat Care says a cat should be picked up with support under the front and back legs, and only if the cat is happy to be held. A wand toy is a great way for children to play without handling. Put it away after play, since International Cat Care says toys with string should only be used under supervision. Give your kitten a room the children can’t get into. A puppy’s crate is their quiet place too, so teach children and guests to leave a puppy alone while they’re in it.
The holidays
Give your new pet a quiet room during parties, or their crate if they’ve already settled into it, tell guests ahead of time and ask them to watch the door so no one slips out. Keep meals and walks on their usual schedule, even when the house is busy. Ask guests not to share food from the table. Our list of holiday foods that aren’t safe for dogs and cats covers what to keep away, and our Christmas tree safety guide covers the tree, the tinsel and the cords.
When to call your veterinarian
Call your veterinarian the same day if your new puppy or kitten stops eating, seems unusually tired, or has vomiting or diarrhea. In a puppy, Cornell says vomiting and diarrhea should be checked for parvovirus. If your puppy or kitten has trouble breathing, collapses or has a seizure, go to your veterinarian or an emergency clinic right away. Trust your instincts with a young animal: calling early is always OK.
The first week is mostly patience: a small space, the same food, a calm routine and a lot of naps. It does get easier.
This article shares general information from veterinary sources. It isn’t a substitute for advice from your own veterinarian.
Sources
We’re arranging a veterinary review of this article. Until it’s done, here are the sources behind it.
American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior: Position Statement on Puppy Socialization
American Animal Hospital Association: 2019 Canine Life Stage Guidelines
American Animal Hospital Association: The Ultimate Checklist for Your Puppy’s Veterinary Care
Feline Veterinary Medical Association: How to Introduce a New Cat to Other Cats in Your Home
Cornell Feline Health Center: Choosing and Caring for Your New Cat
Cornell Riney Canine Health Center: Parvovirus: Transmission to treatment
Cornell Riney Canine Health Center: Holiday hazards for dogs
The Ohio State University, Indoor Pet Initiative: Crate Training
The Ohio State University, Indoor Pet Initiative: Housetraining
The Ohio State University, Indoor Pet Initiative: Socialization
International Cat Care: Helping your new cat or kitten settle in
International Cat Care: Preparing for your new cat or kitten
International Cat Care: Life stage guide to caring for your new kitten
Humane World for Animals: How to Introduce New Cats to Your Home
Humane World for Animals: How to Crate Train Your Dog or Puppy
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